Volubilis

One of the most memorable places visited among all wonderful cities, for me, was Volubilis in Northern Morocco. In a guidebook, there may be only one or a half page speared on this historical site. Most people may or may not come on a day visit from nearby Maknes.

I am not sure how busy this place gets in a high season, but when we were there it was empty. We deliberately went there around the sunset time two days in a row (entrance charge was next to nothing).

Words cannot describe the wonder of this place. Roman ruins buried in wild flowers and tall grasses. Absolutely enchanting. It feels that the place is abandoned and left in wild for centuries in the most beautiful way. Most of the structures are destroyed, but you can still see beautifully done tiles, pillars, drainage in bath/ swimming pool, olive oil extract factory etc. It amazed me how advanced their civilization was. Apparently, some houses of noble people even had a heated floor!! We had this place almost all to ourselves.

I was just fascinated by this place. I imagined how this place must have looked like centuries ago filled with Roman people. I wanted to watch some Roman theme movies movies to satisfy my imagination and obsession. We found a TV series called Rome, and we totally got hooked on it! We would download a few episodes at a time through i-tune (given slow internet connectivity) and watched them throughout the trip. I also read practically most of Wikipedia entries about Rome and major historical figures. This is how magical this place was.    

We stayed here for two nights at a charming farm style maison d’hote, run by Moroccan man who used to work in a posh Michelin restaurant in Holland. We enjoyed organic five-course dinner and story telling by the adventurous owner. Actually, he is one of the people who encouraged us to go through Mauritania, and he put us in touch with his friend who owns a guesthouse in Saint. Louis in Senegal. The guesthouse was 10 minutes walk to the wonderland of Volubilis.    

なぜかドーハ

ネパールから日本に帰るのに、なぜかドーハでトランジット中。もっとましなルートがあったんじゃないかって気もする。

いつもの見慣れたラウンジで、アスパラのポタージュスープ（毎回アスパラかブロッコリーのスープがある）を飲みながら、こちらもアブダビでトランジット中のFR氏とチャットし終わったところ。つまらないことでスカイプであやうく喧嘩になるところだった。

雨期で涼しいカトマンズからの、灼熱の京都は何だか想像できないな。でも半年ぶりの日本楽しみ。

そろそろ搭乗です！

電車の旅

電車の旅はなんでこんなに楽しんだろう。パリからバルセロナまでは個室の寝台車。今まで寝台車に乗ったことはあったけど、２段ベッドの個室は初めて。子供みたいにワクワクして、嬉しくて、寝てしまうのがもったいなかった。

子供の時に、毎月届く学習雑誌に電車の号があって、電車関係の付録が色々付いてきたのを思い出した。偽物の切符とか、切符にちょきちょき穴をあけるハサミが入ってた。その中で、電車の色々を書いた小さい本があった。日本で一番長い電車の駅の名前とか、鉄道関係の話が小学生向けに書いてあった。その本で初めて、寝台車は車掌さんが夜になるとベッドを下ろしにきてくれて、朝になるとまた席に直してくれることを読んで、なんてすてきなんだろう！！と寝台車に憧れたのを覚えてる。数年前にDargiling Express の映画を見てから、電車の旅行に行きたいなとも思ってた。食堂車で食べる朝ご飯も、なんてことないオムレツとパンなのにこんなに美味しく感じてしまう。

Why is it so much fun to go on a train?? From Paris to Barcelona, we took a sleeper train with a private cabin. It had a bank bed, a small sink and a space for luggage. I was so excited and giggly like a child and didn't want to go to sleep. I was laying down on the bed, staring through a window into a darkness feeling so happy. I was disappointed how soon we arrived the next morning. Simple breakfast tasted so special just because it was on a train.      

I must have been 7 or 8 years old. I used to subscribe to a monthly children's study magazine. In one of the months, the subject was railroad. It came with a "conductor kit" including train tickets and a little punch to make holes on tickets etc. It also had a book that contained various interesting facts about rail ways in Japan, such as the longest and shortest stations names.  The book also described how sleeper trains work: during the day you have seats, which turn into a bed at night. I remember admiring how wonderful this is. It was as wonderful as I imagined that to be many many years ago!   

Paris Dakar パリーダカール サハラ砂漠横断の旅

Over the past two months, we have traveled from Paris to Dakar, covering over 5,000 km.

This trip was first conceptualized as another French speaking holiday to go to Morocco and Senegal. I wanted to go back to Morocco, as I was there only for a few days last year attending a conference. M.FR, on the other hand, wanted to go to Senegal for good music. Then, he thought of this “great” idea of going overland through Mauritania combining our respective preferred destination, which was for me a crazy idea initially, given the threat of terrorism, long ride, heat etc etc. After meeting some people during the trip, everyone seems to think that it was fantastic plan, so I finally gave in and decided to go along with it.

Here is the “trajet” of the whole trip of our Paris Dakar. (FYI Paris Dakar race has been moved to South America, after tourists got shot in 2009 in Mauritania) As you can see, a wide variety of modes of transportation were applied.

Paris

ê overnight train

Barcelona 3 nights

ê  train

Cordoba   1 night

ê  train and ferry from Algeciras

Tanger, Morocco   3 nights

ê  train

Fes  3 nights

ê  Driving (Rented a car)

Volvilis  2 nights

ê  Driving

Maknes  passing through

ê  Driving

Rabat  2 nights

ê  Driving

El Jadida 1 night

ê  Driving

Essouria 3 nights

ê  Driving

Agadir 2 nights

ê  Bus and grand taxi

Sidi Wasek 2 nights

ê  Bus and grand taxi

Tantan Plage 1 night

ê Overnight Bus

Dhakla 2 nights

ê  Shared taxi

Noadhibou, Mauritania 2 nights

ê  Bus

Nouakchott 2 nights

ê  Shared taxi

Saint Louis, Senegal 6 nights

ê  Hired vehicle

Lompul 1 night

ê  Hired vehicle

Dakar 6 nights in total with 5 nights of annex trip to Casamance in the South

It looks like a backpacking type of trip, but none of us actually had a backpack. In fact, I had a huge red suitcase, which even contained things like a hair-dryer (only used once during the entire trip, though) and several summer dresses. M.FR was not too happy with my luggage, as he likes to travel light. After two months, he even has grown attached to and was fond of this travel companion of ours.  We didn’t “rough it” too much, by staying in each place a minimum of two nights in most cases and choosing middle level comfortable accommodations. Had neither bed bugs nor smelly bathroom experience. It was never too hot, since we always had a nice breeze from the Atlantic Ocean. We did not get mugged, kidnapped, stuck in a sandstorm or fell ill with malaria fortunately.  Nonetheless, it was still a huge adventure. During the course of our travel, we lined up at 7:30 in the morning in Rabat to apply for a Mauritanian visa, witnessed a huge tense fist fight on a long overnight bus where police was called in in the disputed territory of Western Sahara, drove 5 kilometers of land-mind no-man’s land between Morocco and Mauritania and maneuvered through notorious Rosso border. We narrowly escaped getting an expensive fine for allegedly passing a red light by negotiating with a police officer, cornered by vendors and ran over a tiny bird.        

I can’t document the trip in detail, but I hope to write about some anecdotes and highlights.    

This was by far the longest travel and covering the most distance in my life. It was really once in life time kind of experience.    

In Senegal now

You may be wondering where I am and whether I have passed through Mauritania safely??

I am in the southern part of Senegal, which in a way is an annex trip to our "Paris- Dakar" (also known as aero-postal trip no.1 ). This is the final stretch of the travel before flying back to France early next week. So many things and landscapes I have seen, the food that I have tasted, what I learned and the people I met.... can't be easily summarized. I hope to upload some entries and photos in coming days after I digest it a bit.

I was starting to get a  travel fatigue, but now with an end date in mind, I already miss this trip. Like all things good, this also has to come to an end at one point...

Seemed like a crazy idea at first, but it turned out to be amazing.

Sur la plage de Nouakchott    

Leaving Morocco

Finally leaving Morocco tomorrow morning (given all goes well, meaning the driver shows up!) I am currently in the city called Dakhla at the edge of the country. It is in the middle of a desert. It's going to be a long day tomorrow with a long drive over the border. Looking forward to what I will see in a total new country, Mauritania!   

Sidi Ouarsek

砂漠に近くなって、だんだん世界の果てにきた感が強くなる。

石がごろごろの原っぱを自転車で走る。ガイアナのジャングルでのサイクリングを思い出したな。

El Jadida to Essaouira

Portugese quater in El Jadida- love the colour of the wall

Beautiful fishing towns along the atlantic coast not to mention the seafood that I have been enjoying.

We are in a city called Agadir, getting ready for the trans Sahara trip.... 

Rabat

Volubilis

Romain ruines from 3rd century, one of the most amazing experience in this trip so far   

フェズの街角にて

Tangier to Fes

Cordoba to Tanger

Barcelona to Cordoba

いってきます

スペインからモロッコへの旅。

大好きだったパリのアパートとも今日でお別れ。

冬服はお友達の家にいったん預かってもらった。

これから訪れる国でどんな風景に出会えるのか楽しみ。

最初の１週間しか予約のない旅行。

必要のないものまで詰まった傷だらけの赤のトランクと行ってきます。

Marché aux puces de la porte de Montreuil

M. FR's sister and father were visiting from the US for five days.  Was very nice to get to know his family, indeed. 

Visited a flea market in Montreuil. Love the knickknacks and treasures. (look at some funny details and items in the photos.) 

I came here in 2005 by myself. I remember that I bought two scarves, pink and blue ones. 

It was my first trip to Paris, and I totally fell in love. "Falling in love" is the right expression. I went back to Ottawa and I couldn't think about anything else but Paris for a week, looking at photos and sighing, wondering how I could come and live here. Simple in fact, quit your job and move here.  Wish I knew this before! My "love" for Paris has not faded away since then. 

I bought a hat for our up-coming trip this time.  

Just a few days of stay left in Paris....  

モントレイユの蚤の市。２００５年に行った時の記憶のままの楽しいがらくた市場。

Huitres

Oysters

Flavours of ocean.

It's like swimming in the sea and eating it at a same time.

At a seafood restaurant in the neighbourhood.

今日のエッフェル塔

散歩とその果て Promenade plantée et ensuite??

最近、やっと春らしく暖かくなってきたパリ。先日一人で、marcheの帰りに、ぶらぶらバースティユ周辺を歩いていた時に、たまたま見つけた遊歩道、Promenade Plantee。昔の電車の線路を遊歩道に改装してあって、全長４．５キロもある。

http://equipement.paris.fr/promenade-plantee-1772　

眺めも良いし、色々な木や花が植えられていて、ベンチもたくさん。途中に公園もあるし、パリで私のお気に入りの場所の一つになった。

今週末、またその遊歩道まで散歩に行ってきた。植物を見たり、写真と撮ったりしてのんびり散歩の午後。途中の公園で昼寝したりなんか。

折角だから、最後まで行こうということになり、ずーっと歩いて行くと、たどり着いたのが、なんと

パリのお隣のCharenton-le-Pont という街の..............遊園地。

めずらしいので、見学して、良い年をして観覧車に乗ってきました！私も彼も遊園地なんて、何年も来てないので、乗り物も珍しくて、別世界に迷い込んだような何だか不思議な気分。遊園地って特別な空間。まるで異次元に迷い込んだような。お化け屋敷も嘘くさい信憑性がある気がする。

砂糖が驚くほどかかった、チュロスなんていうジャンキーなものも雰囲気で買ってしまった。

Une petite surprise!  Nous avons suivi la promedande jusqu'a la fin, et ensuite nous nous sommes trouvés dans la foire de trone en dehors de Paris. Nous avons pris une grande roue comme un enfant!
            

パリの風景２

Jardin de Monet

モネの庭にて。お天気も最高でした。写真を撮るには、日が少し強過ぎました。

Couleurs de impressionnisme

In the village of Giverny, I could feel "impressionism" in the air. I tried to see the landscape through the eyes of Monet.

If I had an artistic talent, I would probably have done the same. Get out and paint the beautiful "paysages" plain air avec du lumiere.

Visiting Giverny, I could imagine how he was compelled to do that. Just the simple nature is absolutely stunning. You find beauty in everyday life, which is also what I believe. That was part of the intentions of impressionists art, if I understand correctly.

I always liked the paintings of Impressionists. I used to go to every exhibition in Kansai area when I was in Japan. I was so happy to visit Monet's house and see his famous garden and the pond. It was still bit early for the best season, but at least we beat the huge groups of tourists this way.

Ses peintures de nymphéas, je les adore! J'ai vu aussi son pont japonais tres connu dans le jardin!    

Monet's House

We walked from and to the station of Vernon, which added up to about 15 kilometers. I didn't have to go to the museums in Giverny (there are few), because what he painted is all there! I enjoyed our walk in the countryside. What a bliss!

寝起きの悪いFR氏を無理矢理起こして行ったかいがあった。

Spring Day in Giverny

パリの風景

ヨガやフランス語のクラスの行き帰りに出会う、街の一こま。時間や天候によって違って見えるけど、いつもそこにあるエッフェル塔。笑ってるみたいな爪の先ほどの、小さな月。急いでいても、つい立ち止まらずにはいられないパリの毎日の風景。

（iPhoneですかさず撮影！so that I could share it with you.）                                                  

Sceneries that I come across on the way to my french and yoga class. With varying times of the day and weather, it looks different, but tour eiffel is always there. Tiny crescent moon that looks like someone's smile. Can't help stopping to appreciate the beauty even when I am in a rush.    

Weekend photography project

日常のシアワセ

週末カフェにて、ホットワインと読書

Petit cadeau de mon copain 

パリの街角

La forêt Fontainebleau

J’ai adoré les plages et la mer aux maladives, mais l’une de choses qui m'ont manquée le plus était la forêt et les arbres. Meme s'il fait encore assez froid, je peux voir que le printemps commence petit à petit dans de la forêt Fontainebleau. J’étais très contente de me promener malgré le vent. C’était refranchissant quand même. J’aime aller à la petite excursion comme ça en apportent des sandwichs. Je crois qu’il y aura des fleurs partout dans quelques semaines.       

Fontainebleau フォンテンヌブロー日帰り旅行

Paquesで今日は祝日のフランス。今週末は３連休です！

電車で１時間弱のFontainebleauまで行ってきました。Le château royal de Fontainebleauはフランス一大きいお城です。

私の当初の目的は、森の中の散策だったんだけど、かなり寒い。お弁当のサンドイッチも外で食べるにはちょっとまだ早かったみたい。

折角なので、お城の中も見学してきました。頑張ってオーディオガイドをフランス語で聞いたけど、分かりにくかった．．．。

もう少し暖かくなってから、今度はハイキングに来たいです。