Les amies et amis

It's been busy two weeks.

I met up with a friend of mine,  whom I worked with in Malawi. I have not seen her since then for the past six years. 

I just found out that she now lives in Paris and works for the UN. Isn't it just amazing?

She was as beautiful and nice as I remembered her to be. We had a non stop two hour session of catching up, as you can easily imagine. We used to share everything with each other from work problems (we were both at the Ministry of Education) to personal (yes more the boy related things) things in life. We traveled to Zambia together and have so many funny memories. Feel free to read the entries of 2006 :). Funny enough what I remember the most is instant noodles that she used to cook for us during 1.5 hour lunch break at home, as she used to live very close to the Ministry. I really missed her!      

We were not in touch so frequently in the past 6 years, so we had to recount each other's life chronologically. Many things happened in our lives, but at the same time we are still exactly same as before. We have never imagined that we will find each other in Paris of all places!! I hope to spend as much time as possible with her during my sejour in Paris.   

In the meantime, my boyfriend had a visitor, long time friend from school, whom I also met in NY two years ago. He stayed with us on the couch bed for two nights. I drank quite a bit of sangria (in my low standard, which is getting improved!) with them.

I hope to meet up and catch up with more friends in Europe. One of the great things about working internationally is having friends in many places. The down-side is obviously not being able to see them all the time, so we need to make best of opportunities. The friend of M. FR happened to be in Geneva for work, and he took a train to come see him. He said "not coming to see him in Paris from Geneva is like being in NY at a same time but not meeting with each other" and he had to come. End surely, he had a great time walking around in the city and going to restaurants with us, I hope!      

Paris vs New York

Now that I have been in Paris for 3 weeks, I could start making some comparisons between Paris and NY. Somehow, I feel compelled to always compare it with NY. Well, I didn't spend that much time in both places, so this is nothing profound, but here are some very initial impressions:

• Paris has far less dry cleaners, nail salons and pet shops. In Paris, these are replaced by bakeries (not to mention that pastries are heavenly). Seems to have a similar proportion of pharmacies and banks. Japanese restaurants are everywhere similarly.   
• Paris seems to have more tourists. Anywhere you go, you encounter people with cameras holding a map in their hand. There are certainly many Japanese tourists. I wonder why they come in a middle of winter (sure this applies to me too!), but nothing deters them from finding time to visit France in their meager leave days. You know what? I just did a quick google search. Paris is the third most visited city in the world after Orlando and NY. So, I was wrong. I guess my time in NY was mostly spent working in the office and here entirely different as you know.   
• Rent is cheaper in Paris. We are renting a small one-bedroom apartment in one of the nicest quartier, which seems ok comparing to my tiny studio apartment on 60th St in front of a highway, which I paid a lot for but still told was a bargain. Groceries seems equally expensive. 
• Only things reasonable in Paris, in my opinion, are wine and cheese. You can find decent wine for 4-5 euros. Low end brie cheese starts from less than 2 euro. Probably not so good for cholesterol and over-drinking.   
• People start eating a baguette that they haven't paid for waiting in line in supermarkets. I have only seen this in Montreal but not really elsewhere.
• I am surprised that most of yogurt here are also 0 or low fat type. I thought French would never eat fake dairy products. 
• I am yet to find an equivalent of Central Park in Paris. I went to Parc de Luxembourg and Parc de plante. They are nice and manicured, but I like more woody, bushy sort of parks. In any case, I can't wait for spring with flowers blooming.   
• I like that most of fruits and vegetables are not pre-packed even in major supermarkets. French fridges (European) must be smaller than American gigantic ones and even with a separate deep freezer.
• I guess there is no need to mention how magical the city is. I am overwhelmed by the beauty of Paris everyday. I haven't done anything touristy yet, but I walk by monuments and squares on a way to something. I cross pont neuf to go to my yoga class.    

It's interesting to get a glimpse of life here. You see I have lived and worked in several countries, but I have spent hardly anytime in Europe. I will add more on the list!  

La vie quotidienne

パリの一日はあっと言う間に終わってしまう。先月は毎日９、１０時間働いていたのに！どこに時間が行ってしまったのだか。お休みでのんびりするはずが、なぜかフランス語のクラスとヨガに行っているだけで、気が付けばもう夜になっている。

特別な事はしていなくても、可愛いお店のウィンドウを覗きながら、学校への道を歩いたり、スーパーで食材を買って、アパートでお料理するだけで、今の所は満足。近所で買うパイやジェラートが夢のように美味しいし、パリは３６０度どこから見ても素敵で、”そこ”にいるだけで、特別だと思う。

アパートのある小さい通りに、たくさんレストランがあるので、毎週一度はそのうちのどこかを試してる。今週はこじんまりとしたクレープ屋さん（家の斜め向かい）でスモークサーモンのサラザンのクレープを頂いた。デザートにキャラメルとリンゴのコンポートのクレープアイスクリーム添え（so decadent!)も食した。その後”はしご”でそこの斜め前の、彼が前から気になっていたバーでビールを飲んで帰ってきた。このバーは近所の酔っぱらいがたむろしているような小さい個人経営な感じ。

今のところは週３でalliance françaiseに通っていて、今週からプライベートのクラスをネットで見つけたフランス人の先生に習っている。ソルボンヌの語学クラスに通う彼と、家でもなるべくフランス語で話してるけど、ついつい英語に戻ってしまう。壁にもvocabulaireのリストを貼付けてる。どこまでフランス語が上達するかな。

夜の散歩

写真日記 パリ生活２週間目

Centre Pompidou -Salvador Dali

Pompidouセンターのダリ展に行ってきました。閉館前の時間（夜の１１時までやっている）だったのに、たくさんの人でにぎわっていました。有名な作品や、NYのメトロポリタンで見た絵もあり、とても見応えのある展覧会でした。

Crêpe, cidre et teste de classement

今日は寒い中、ルクセンブルグ公園をお散歩。 気温は３度くらいで、私は帽子なしではいられない。でも街を歩いている人は３割くらいしか帽子を被ってない！南国慣れした私は、毎日、母にもらったへんてこな毛糸の帽子を被ってる。

写真は途中に立ち寄ったクレープ屋さん。サイダーを飲んだら昼間からちょっと酔っぱらってしまって、そのままクラス分けテストに行ったのです。

After walking through the Jardin Luxembourg, me and my boyfriend stopped at a cute little creperie, called La Bolée.  

I was just going to have tea with my chocolate crepe, but we ordered cidre because everyone else was having it.

This is obviously an alcoholic drink, and I went to write a placement test for my class a bit drank! It was very tasty though.

I reviewed verb conjugaisons while he was doing his home work. I have seriously forgotten all the tenses and conjugation.　

   

Petit progrès パリ生活

Registering for French class check!

Bikram Yoga class sign-up check!

Mobile phone number in France check!

Finding a japanese grocery store check!

Pas mal de progrès pour la première semaine?? 

A Paris

I have arrived in Paris!

無事にパリに到着しました。アパートもこじんまりとしていて、居心地が良いし、なんと言っても立地が素晴らしい！ルーブル美術館までも歩いて１５分くらいで、家を一歩でるとありとあらゆるレストランが並んでる。

既にスーパーマルシェに３度も行ってしまった。美味しそうな野菜を見ているだけで幸せな気分になる、ホント。途上国から来るとあまりの違いに、すぐにはアジャストできません。

今日はセーヌ川のほとりを散歩。自分がまだパリにいるのが信じられない。

毎日３０度の国にいたのに、こちらはまだかなり寒い。風邪引かないようにしないと。

Last Weekend

Taking in the best part of the country fullest on the last weekend.

I went to a resort, which is 20 minutes speed boat away with a colleague/ friend and her family. 

I didn't get to dive but snorkeled all day.

When will I have an opportunity to swim in the Indian Ocean with colorful fish and be on this white sand beach next time? Feeling little sentimental as there are many my last something in the country (Actually some my first as well, friends would ask me "have you done, eaten...? No?! then I have to take you before you leave!!" type things). 

I hope I will come back some time.

波の音を聞いて、潮風に吹かれていると、主都の喧噪も仕事のストレスもすぐに忘れてしまうのが不思議。

最後の週末にリゾートでのんびりできて良かった。今の時期、この国はハイシーズンで、割引価格では予約が取れないのだけど、旅行関係の仕事をされている同僚の家族の方のおかげで行く事ができました。感謝。

ダイビングはできなかったけど、一日中スノーケリングをして、最後にたくさん魚を見られたので、満足です。インド洋の青さと真っ白な砂浜を目に焼き付けて。

まだまだ

来週の月曜日が最終日だっていうのに、明日はまた研修を決行。頼まれたら断れない．．．。そろそろ、やり残した仕事とか片付けたいのに。只今、明日のプレゼンの準備中です。これが終われば山を越えるかな？いつものごとく、きっと空港に行くギリギリまで仕事していることでしょう。

お別れイベントも盛りだくさんです。ランチやら朝ご飯、ポットラックディナーまで。近場の安いリゾートを同僚が予約してくれたので、彼女のご家族と一緒に１泊、木曜日の夕方から行ってきます。

Back to work now. 研修はいつものごとく、ジェンダー問題とジェンダー主流化について。今回は国連のスタッフ相手なので、手強い参加者はいないと良いけど。

Surprise Farewell Party

My colleagues organized a surprise BBQ party for my farewell, and it was so nice. 

One of my friends offered to take me out for an evening yesterday to the next island. We took a 20 mins boat ride and strolled around, and then she said let's get in a cab to go have a drink somewhere. We got off the cab and my friend started to walk over to a pre-school. I said "why are we going to a pre-school?" and her answer was "oh my sister works here and I need to pick up something." I walked into a yard, and there they were, my gender trainers were there and they yelled out "surprise!!" with a big smile.

Apparently, this plan was cooked up when I organized a refresher workshop for them at the end of January. They coordinated to make sure that they don't take the same boat as me. My friend was such a good actress. I am giving her Oscar best actress award.

We had four huge fish, grilled potatoes, chocolate cake etc. First time I had BBQ and ate with my fingers. We also danced one last time the one billion rising flashmob. I had lots of fun. It's funny how they all speak the local language among themselves (I am usually the only foreigner) but I have fun anyway just hanging out.

I will really miss these guys. They are a group of such nice and committed people. We are building a stronger voice on gender issues in this country, and I am more hopeful despite the situation in the country. Creating this group as well as helping one women's organization to get established are at least two small achievements that I am proud of. I really hope that they will continue and develop.

This was the farewell party No.3. I still have a week, so I don't have to say bye to anyone yet. Thank goodness! I dread leaving and saying good-byes. I am worried that I will be so emotional...     

Her(his)story Making in MV

One Billion Rising Campaign in the country was a huge success.  It was the best turn out ever in the history of the country for a social cause according to my colleagues. We danced, made a pledge and rose up to say "enough is enough" to violence against women and girls in solidarity. Most importantly, we had a blast!

Team members worked hard day and night. This time, it was a NGO who was leading organizing it but we all supported. When you do this kind of work a boundary between personal and professional doesn't really exist.

This will be one of the best memories of my time here. 10 more days and still counting....

Promotion video message that we developed.

撮影散歩２

The main objective of my photo shooting walk project yesterday was actually to take pictures of doors. I like doors (in an aesthetic sense and also makes you wonder what is on the other side), and those in this city come in assorted colors.

The city, which I called home over a year, itself never grew on me to be honest. It is over-crowded. Motorbikes drive by you so close and fast. Sidewalks are practically non-existent. There are only a few historical buildings. Not much local crafts. This place seems like a toy city made of lego blocks. But, if you look closely, there are some charming aspects. These colorful doors are one of the charms in my opinion.

Let me also list up nice things about the city just to be fair: weather, nice sea breeze, easy to get around-taxi is very reasonable (one drop anywhere in the island costs about 1.3 USD) and you can pretty much walk everywhere anyway, decent Thai food, ocean view, fish-based local cuisine (but not really available in restaurants).

Still wondering around looking for more doors..      

ちなみに、ここの街の家には全部名前が付いています。ドアの横／上のプレートがそれ。例えば、海のそよ風、雪の雫とか黄色の波、金の館、等。システムがはっきりと分からないけど、ちゃんと登録してあるそうです。

撮影散歩1

Taking advantage of the last few weeks in this country, I took a walk around the city with my camera this afternoon. A few photos from a local market.

By the way, I am the only one who thinks about how they would taste, when I see fish during diving? I can't help it. What do you think? I am Japanese. 

Talking about capacity building

Capacity development is often one of the main things we do in development work. It basically means that you train local people to do things better and be self-reliant. It is often compared to "teaching someone to fish rather than giving fish."

Anyway, today I received an e-mail from my government counterpart, who has become a friend. She told me that she has learnt many things from me, (nice of her to say) and one of the good habits she learnt from me is to acknowledge and respond to each e-mail (!!). Apparently for her me saying something like "thank you. I will review the document and revert back." was special.   

I thought it was funny that she thought it was a good habit, because I take that for granted. She is a very responsible and competent person, but in many countries, something as basic as this may not always be a "common sense." It may be hard to believe for you, right? 

I remember I used to write in e-mails to local implementing partner NGOs "please acknowledge this message" in Nepal. It was one of my ways of "capacity building", but I was quite frustrated that they didn't respond to e-mails and I had to call them to follow-up. It can be a bit condescending, but you also need to keep them accountable without being too bossy. I guess it is much better to show a good example.          

I found an old entry on capacity building.

Pleine lune

先週末は満月でした。なぜだかピンク色に写ってしまった夜空。

Francais encore

Je suis en train de lire un roman en français, qui est un des cadeaux de Noel de mon copain (y compris une paire de gants et chapeau de laine de Népal….il était plus averti probablement parce que je me suis plaint que il ne m’a pas donné un cadeau en mon anniversaire!!). 

En le premier page, j’ai trouvé dix mots que je n'ai pas compris. C’était découragent franchement. Les mots comme éplucheur, évier, égouttoir, cavette et agenouiller…etc. Vous pouvez imaginer facilement que c’était une scène qui se passe dans une cuisine. 

Je le écris aussi pour réviser la grammaire et des vocabulaires, connaissent que personne ne le lit. Il me faut activer des cellules de mon cerveau.     

J’ai commencé à apprendre français quand j’avais dix-neuf ans à l’université au Japon. Ça fait déjà plus de dix-sept ans. Incroyable!!

En tout cas, je continue à lire ce roman et étudier un peu en préparation pour mes séjours à Paris.    

Fushimi Inari and more

Visit to the Fushimi Inari Shrine

These series of red gates on a hill side are very picturesque. If you would like to do the whole trail, it could take up to 2 hours. We turned back a half way through and had lunch in a small Udon noodle shop. Sweet sake drink was so warm and perfect after a walk.

We both did a fortune telling draw Omikuji- you shake a box and a stick with a number comes out. You tell the number at the counter, and you are given a piece of paper that tells your fortune, a bit more sophisticated version of fortune cookies. Mine was good. I don't remember exactly, but it was positive in  all aspects, like moving house is good, love life is good etc. My poor boyfriend didn't have very good luck. He was pretty upset and didn't want me to translate everything. One common thing in both of ours was that the lucky direction was north east. Is this some kind of an omen? What is in the north east direction, I wonder..?  We normally tie the paper to a tree brunch unless it is the best luck "big-luck". It will improve the luck, if you leave it at the shrine. A funny (or not so funny) cultural experience for him.

Anyway, the whole trip was great. It is interesting to see your own city through the eyes of a foreigner.  I guess I have also almost become foreigner in my own country.

We also visited Kiyomizu temple, saw a beautiful 5-hour kabuki performance, went shopping, took a walk to a temple on a small mountain on the new year day and had a private tour of the temple, watched Kohaku in kotatsu eating mandarine oranges, went to a movie theatre and even did a calligraphy in addition to the trip to Awaji island with a stop-over in Himeji and Akashi. All in seven days!!

(photo credit: FR)              

Mouthwatering Indeed!

It's hard to cross off everything on your list of things to eat, when there are only three meals per day.