mardi, décembre 23, 2014

Wonderland Trail

This may have been one of hardest things I have done. I was a girl scout when I was younger. I did lots of outdoor things, walking and camping, but this was not nearly as hard-core as the Wonderland Trail. Wonderland trail is in Washington Sate around Mt. Rainer, about 3 hours drive from Seattle. The total distance is about 150 kilo meters. 


Last summer, M.FR was just completing another trail in Colorado, and he invited me to join him on this “back-packing” as how they refer it in the US. Another American couple from California, whom he befriended the previous year also during another backpacking trip has organized it and invited us. He told me “it’s not going to be easy, but I would normally walk twice the distance of what we will walk everyday. Besides, the other couple will go slower, so that is not going to be so bad.” I still didn’t know what I was getting myself into, and I thought “sure, why not? I like hiking and trekking.”

M. FR and I met up on my birthday last year in Seattle. We went gear shopping. The first shock came when he told me that I was supposed to bring only two pairs of socks and two t-shirts (day shirt and night shirt to sleep in.) I didn’t really comprehend the concept. I went trekking in Nepal, but I had at least some T-shirts and socks to change everyday. We had a porter too. He told me anything you bring would add to the weight you have to carry, so keep it a bare minimum. The second shock was that we had to pack food worth of 10 days, as there is nowhere to refill supplies all along the route. Mostly freeze dry items, but it adds up. I was started to getting scared but kept quiet as I didn’t want him to think I was not tough enough.

Comes the day of our trip, we met the couple at the airport and drove off. They kindly lent me a backpack and a sleeping bag. My gear consisted of brand-new walking shoes (yes not the best idea) downjacket, water bottle, food and some mujirushi treats, two pairs of clothes, camera, gloves, water-resistant jacket and pants (borrowed from my sister) inflatable mat for sleeping and walking sticks. M.FR carried a two-person tent for us. When they were all packed in the backpack, I couldn’t believe how heavy it was. I could barely lift it up to put it on my back! Then, I remember the thing I hate the most is carrying heavy things!
This trail was particular in a way that you need to book camping spots for the entire trip, and you need to go accordingly. There is no freedom of stopping and pitching a tent wherever you feel like. The first day was fine with a short distance. I kept up. The second day I also managed, though I arrived exhausted. On the night of the second day, it started raining with heavy thunder. We were in a forest, so I wasn’t scared. I never knew lighting can come in a range of colors, white, yellow, pink and orange. In the total darkness of the tent I could see all these colors.

After this day, it kept raining all day. We got to a river crossing to find out that the bridge was washed away by the heavy rain. I thought we were going to wait till it got fixed, even felt glad that I can stop and rest. Then M.FR said “we need to wade.” I didn’t know what wading meant. It means crossing the river on foot!! I was cold, tired and scared. I just met a group who decided to wait since it will be dangerous to cross. I started crying and begged M.FR not to make me do this. His answer was “don’t worry. This is normal. We do it everytime.” I knew then that I had no choice. Jack (the husband of the couple who is very experienced and so fit) offered to carry my backpack. I used my walking sticks to balance and not to slip in the river that came to my knee. The last part was the trickiest. It was deeper, probably around till my waist with what it seemed like a strong volume of glacier water rushing down... There was a log about three meters fell on the river, and we were to balance and cross on this. One foot at a time, I managed and kept going. Everyone was holding breath. The cold took away my energy and it was the longest distance to cover that day of the whole trip, around 16 miles. I was wet, cold and backpack was getting wet and heavier and heavier. I was quite miserable. At one point on this day, M.FR also carried my pack for a little while. We finally arrived in one camping site, which we did not reserve. It was clear that we weren’t going to be able to go any further that day and managed to find a spot. A half of my sleeping bag was wet, so we shared one sleeping bag and kept my jacket on. I was freezing. The next day, I put on same wet socks and continued…. On one sunny day finally, we spread all our belongings on a rock to dry them out. I could see steams coming off from my backpack, clothes etc etc. 

Despite this, I also had beautiful moments. There were lots of wild blueberries on this trail, and we would stop and munch on sweetest blueberries I ever had until my tongue was all purple. We slept outside one night, putting our mats side-by-side and fell sleep watching a beautiful sky and stars. Peanut butter on trail bars never tasted so good in my life, which was our lunch everyday. I could have eaten a half jar in one sitting if I was allowed. M.FR, who is normally very slow in the morning, would get up before me and start preparing breakfast (tea and oatmeal with honey.) Anything and everything I ate tasted delicious, as every calorie and sugar and fat counts (including things like cold rehydrated mushed potatoes, grill cheese sandwich in one cabin which stayed open). Saw some amazing landscapes and wild flowers, mountain goats etc.  I was dirty and my hair was greasy, but we kept going. It was obviously the longest time of not showering. I learned some new backpacking vocabularies like “of-course” wading, trailhead and switchback.

With encouragement and help from the group, I managed to keep up for 10 days. At one point, my heels were hurting so much from the new shoes, I wore flip-flops. I thought shoes are like a dictatorship of feet!

After the 10 days, you know what M.FR said to me? He said “I didn’t think you could complete the trail. This was much harder than I thought and may be hardest I have had with the rain and going up and down everyday.” !!!! So, yes I succeeded. I impressed him, and this was just so worth it just to hear him say that. I passed the test.    


I would like to do that again, but wouldn’t mind it if it is a little easier. I was actually invited again this year, but I didn’t go because he told me it may be harder than last year. It’s always good to get out of my comfort zone. Carrying a heavy pack and wearing same wet socks five days consecutively is not within my comfort zone. For that, I thank him for always pushing and testing my limit (in many ways.) Now I fantasize going on easier trekking with the boy on his back. I wonder how soon we can go on such adventures again. Along the way, we met a nice group of older people in their early 70's. They were so fit and seem to enjoy life very much. My goal is to be like them when and if we are lucky to be live till then.        

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